La Parguera · One private group per departure

Bioluminescence in Puerto Rico

Three bays, one guide who has been in the water more than three hundred nights, and everything nobody tells you before you book.

Your guide

The historical record, and the nights.

The bioluminescent bays are perhaps the least understood attraction on our island.

Search for them and you will get the same advice everywhere: go on a new moon, book a kayak, expect electric blue water. Some of that is incomplete. Some of it is simply wrong.

I am Carlos A. López Ruiz. I founded Bucketlist Tours in 2018, and I design, operate and guide every departure myself. I have studied Puerto Rican history for close to thirty years, and I have been on that water more than three hundred nights, across every phase of the moon, every season and every condition the Caribbean can produce.

Everything on this site comes from those two things.

In the water

Water that answers you.

It is night. You are floating. You move your arm, and five hundred tiny flashes answer you at once, wrapped right around your skin.

La Parguera is the one bay of our three where I can take you into the water instead of asking you to look at it from above.

The Night ScaleThree measures, all of them made with your own body.

Average night

The halo
6 to 10 inches from the skin, several hundred sparkles
Texture
separate points, about ¼ inch apart
The arm test
30 to 40 points blinking on the arm

Peak night

The halo
close to 24 inches, twice the density
Texture
milky and continuous, no separation
The arm test
hundreds

Bucketlist Tours · Carlos A. López Ruiz

Not out there somewhere. On you.

The experience

The night, start to finish.

  1. Afternoon

    The road

    A private road trip from San Juan to the southwest coast, across the central mountain range and down into the southern plains.

  2. Sunset

    The cay

    A private boat to Cayo Caracoles, with snorkeling in warm, clear water and gear for everyone. Sunset on the water.

  3. Nightfall

    The dark

    Then we wait, because the bay keeps its own hours and so do your eyes. They need fifteen full minutes of darkness before they are ready.

  4. After dark

    The water

    I am the first one in. I show you how to move, how to read the halo, and how to lift your arm slowly enough to see the light blinking on your skin. I film it, and the footage is yours.

One private group per departure. No strangers on the boat. No age limit. I have had two-year-olds and eighty-five-year-olds in that water.

Afterwards there is a hotel where you can shower and change, and dinner is on the table fifteen minutes after we get back.

When to come

Why we go out on nights other tours stay home.

Every site tells you to come on a new moon. It is the smallest part of the answer.

There are another eight to ten nights in most months when the moon rises late enough that the bay is dark the entire time you are in the water. They are not on any bio bay calendar I have seen. They are on mine.

And on bright nights we have something else. We go out on a pontoon.

Under the platform there is no moon.

The story

I was seven years old, in the Abra Honda ward in Camuy, a child severely allergic to almost everything that flew, when I caught a cucubano and it did not sting me. It walked across my palm and it glowed.

When I was nine, my father took me to La Parguera on a glass-bottom boat. He told me the cucubanos were a gift from Papá Dios, but that this was His presence in front of us.

Almost fifty years later, I am still the first one in the water.

Read the full story

Questions

Ask these of whoever you go with.

The answers vary enormously, and the price does not always tell you which is which. These are mine.

Yes. We use a partner hotel in La Parguera. You change there before we board and shower there after the swim.

After. It is ordered on the way in and arrives fifteen minutes after we get back.

Only your group. One private group per departure.

I am the first one in, on every departure, and I stay in with you the whole time.

No. I have had two-year-olds and eighty-five-year-olds in that water.

Life vests and floaties are included, the bay is saltier than the sea so you float more easily, and under the pontoon you can hold on to the ribs of the platform.

No. We snorkel at a cay for close to two hours first and watch the sunset from the water. The bay comes once it is fully dark.

To a camera, yes. To your eyes, whitish sparkles, perhaps pale green. Only at its peak does it show a hint of blue.